boats at clovelly

le park

Just back from a really fun week riding in the Portes du Soleil. It's an area we know well but haven't been to for a few years. It was really nice to be back on familiar territory with good snow and sunshine. Lovely to bump into Tammy from Mint again, hope your knee gets better soon!

I can report that i learnt a couple of things....... 

1. My nearly middleaged body doesn't bounce as well as it used to

2. You can teach an old dog new tricks!

Dupli-Color NGSF100 Black Exact-Match Touch-up Paint - 0.5 oz.

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palindrome hunches

Neil Halstead has a new album out on November 5th called "Palindrome Hunches". Haunting, beautiful, melancholic and cementing his reputation as one of our finest singer songwriters. Really worth seeing him live if you can, he is superb!

On a seperate note, how annoying to have to wait for four failed courier attempts to find my house/ deliver something only to find it's smashed into 300 pieces when i finally get to open the box! grrrrrrr!

barreling for pixies..

There can't be many days a year Beliche looks this much like a lake...... just when i visit then!

Shame because it looks like a beautiful spot

forward observation post

If you don't have young kids is difficult to understand how much of an expedition a simple day at the beach can become. If you do, you'll know exactly what i'm talking about. The beach tent, an essential bit of kit!

smooth 'n' casual

2 Sessions x Scotty Stopnik from Jack Belli on Vimeo.

In a nutshell, this is why i love surfing in California. Sun, sunsets and glassy peelers, artfully recorded by Jack Belli who is a super talented photographer and runs a rad little blog here

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KOOOOOOOK!!!!

 

I'd completely forgotton sending Dan anything for the latest installment of Kook's palindromic surf smorgasbord so i was really excited to spot my little ode to summer evening stoke nestling in the corner of the first page.

 

Yet another reason to buy it and support independant, non corporate surf multi-national mouthpiece, grass roots, authentic surf culture

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dawnpatrol surfcheck

 

I've been out on my bike a lot recently, a combination of enforced dry dock, lack of time, lack of decent waves to get excited about, maybe if i'm honest a slight dimming of the desperation to get wet at any and every opportunity.

 

 In fact it's been kind of liberating to have something to do for fitness thats always available and not dependant on the lining up of several fickle things. It's been fun to find a new way of getting a little shot of adrenalin, learning some new skills. One of the things i've enjoyed most has been exploring the place that i live in a whole new way, seeing familiar places with new eyes and going to beautiful places that are within a couple of miles of my well worn ruts that i never knew existed.

 

Maybe it's a part of getting older but i feel i've found a kind of peace in my surfing lately. Dont get me wrong, i still love it, i still get butterlies of excitement when i wake on a day thats good and i know i'm going to get waves, but i dont feel like i have anything to prove anymore, to myself or anyone else. I know that it doesnt matter how many sessions i miss, i'll still be able to surf ok when i get in again.

 

I think i used to feel like i was somehow "getting away with it" with being able to surf to a decent level, being fit, being accepted in the local surfing community as having something to offer and that if i didn't keep pushing, pushing, pushing i'd somehow get found out as an expensively kitted pretender worthy of derision not respect. I think a lot of my happiness in my own self image was tied up in it and thats not the healthiest way to be. Maybe there's some buried childhood thing - i do remember a traumatic losing of a sack race at sports day somewhere along the line!

 

 I also think there is a kind of underlying macho bullshit in surfing associated with wave size, from the magazine's obsession with them right through to the casual downrating of wave size by many of the surf reports. I like small waves and i'm not ashamed to say it, for me they're more fun.

 

Forgive me if that all sounds a bit american and hippy (california is of course my spiritual home :-)) but i know what i'm talking about even if i've not managed to convey it. Suffice to say it's all good in trimworld.

pick up the planer..

This little run of summer waves and weather has given me the first proper chance to run my newest log through it's paces. It's a 9'4 "mod log" from the last batch of boards Randall shaped before hanging up his planer indefinately last year. I loved the look of it when Neil showed it to me and wished i'd had the cash and the space in the shed to buy it then so when it popped up for sale on magic seaweed i wasn't about to make the same mistake twice!

Template wise it's pretty much what a lot of people have been moving towards recently, less Nuuhiwa noserider and more Hot Generation/ Magic Sam with a greenough fin, thin pinched rails, widepoint pulled back a little, plenty of roll out into the rails and only a shallow nose concave. The nose is fairly narrow at 17 3/4 and the tail is wide at 16 1/4. Despite being 23 wide and 3 in the center there's not a great deal of foam in there. It's similar to the boards Dane Peterson has been riding recently or Chonoski's "involvement" Mctavish's

It's not really a "saunton board" being designed for waves with a little more zip but like most boards with a wide point back of center, as long as there is a steepish pocket to tuck into there's plenty of scope to get piggies dangling. Off the tail it's whippy in a pivoty way and it's got a nice responsive lively feel despite it's volan glass. In fact my only negative so far would be that it paddles really slowly although i'm not entirely sure why as it's fast in trim.

It's a crying shame Randall is no longer making boards, his logs are great and he makes a great mini-simmons too. His templates are spot on and the boards are beautifully finished with some very neat creative touches. Mine has a carbon fibre cloth asymmetric tail patch for example!

I think everyone i've known to ride one of his shapes has rated it and there are more than a few people who would like to get a board off him if he can ever be persuaded to pick up a planer again. In a way it's a little bit pointless posting a detailed review since none of you can currently order a board off him so perhaps this can form another little prick at his concious that his skills are prized over here and an occasional trip to the shaping bay wouldn't be such a bad thing!

skull 'n' bones

Anyone who knows me well will know that i like a nice bit of technical kit, jackets and packs especially, it's quite a running joke with my climbing buddy Mike and his wife!

With winter here and thoughts of january dawn surf checks i treated myself to a Patagonia Down zip hoody. I'm not much of an eco warrior but i've always appreciated Patagonia's simple functional style. Their kit is always well thought out, well tested and in my experience, lasts very well. In lieu of anything more interesting and surf related to post i thought i'd post up a review.

First off, this is not a full spec outer layer, it's aimed either as a dry weather outer or as a thermal layer under a shell. It's part of their alpine range and is fully ready to be used way up a proper mountain. It's got a fairly boxy cut and a big hood that's clearly designed to fit well over a climbing helmet. The down filling is fairly lightweight despite having an 800 fill rating and coupled with the light shell material, the jacket has very little weight. It's weight is barely noticeable wearing it and when compressed up small and attached to a carabiner it's a hardly noticeable addition to your harness on a multi pitch climb. This makes it ideal for  dry weather belay jacket. Although the shell of the jacket is water resistant, it's not as waterproof as a proper outer shell and down is loses some of it's thermal properties when wet compared to synthetic fillers like primaloft. You are fine in a reasonable shower but i wouldn't wear it alone in a total downpour.

Despite it's barely there feel, this is a warm jacket, especially when you're moving. If you generate even a little bit of your own heat it retains it well and several times i've started a stroll with the dog cold and zipped up only to have to open up the zip after 5 minutes to relieve the stifling heat!

So perfect pre and post winter surf in everything but a total downpour and perfect for hanging around gearing up and belaying on baggy. Definately reccomended!

hold fast me hearties!

 

Happy new year!!

nothin doing, doin nothing

Not quite baywatch is it?!

the sun always shines on tv

Seems like i'm not allowed to embed the video i had lined up for this post. It's called anecdote by louis english and it's pretty cool, hopefully its still here. If not you'll have to make do with a suitably apocalyptic phone pic of Saunton, moments before another summer downpour!


showing my age somewhat with the title of this post eh?

Old but new footage of messrs Knost and Mell from the land where the sun never sleeps....